Vodopivec Vitovska 2014
Vitovska at its most naked and expressive can give Chablis a run for its money in its unabashed expression of pure limestone, and Vodopivec’s 2014 qualifies in flamboyant fashion. The high concentration of quartz in Paolo’s sub-zone of the Carso imbues his wines with a palpable smokiness, one which he harnesses with impressive authority. This 2014 embodies Paolo’s ideal of an egoless wine, yet it could have been made by nobody else—a delicious conundrum. This wine forces the taster to engage with it on its own terms, drawing down a curtain of vibrant minerality that completely envelops and intoxicates—a Rothko-like exploration of pure texture that asks nothing but to be beheld and adored.